It is essential to check the fuses in your installation.
It is imperative to respect the type and rating of the fuse. These indications are written on the electronic cards and in the instructions for your motorization.
Failure to follow these instructions may result in the destruction of your electronic card!
F 5A 230V = 5 Amp “fast” fuse
T 6.3A 230V = 6.3 Ampere “time-delay” fuse
The fuse holders are fragile, you have to press them down slightly, then turn them a quarter turn to be able to disassemble them without damaging them. Reverse procedure to put them back in place.
Here are the main meanings of the LEDs on CAME cards
CX / C1 / D1: Obstacle, fault or absence of safety cells on terminals 2 and CX / C1 / D1.
CY / C3 / D3: Obstacle, fault or absence of safety cells on terminals 2 and CY / C3 / D3.
C7: Obstacle, fault or absence of safety cells or sensitive edges on terminals 2 and C7.
C8: Obstacle, fault or absence of safety cells or sensitive edge on terminals 2 and C8.
ST / STOP: Fault or absence of emergency stop button on terminals 2 and 1 (Normally closed contact). Or red connector terminals ST and G (MOTOSTAR).
PWR / POWER / ALIM: Indicates that the card is powered. Should not flash.
RED / PROG / GREEN LED: Obstacle, fault or absence of safety cells / Fault or absence of emergency stop button on terminals 2 and 1 (Normally closed contact). See instructions.
ERROR AND WARNING MESSAGES:
It is imperative to first check for traces of oxidation and insects. It is very common for your breakdown to be due to one or the other, or even both!
Cleaning a trace of oxidation / insect does not repair the card!
! The use of contact / WD40 / varnish type products destroys or makes it impossible to repair electronic cards!
Powered by 230V, it allows you to adapt the voltage to the needs of your motor, most generally 24V and 12V.
You can check that it is in good condition by measuring the voltage at these inputs and outputs using a multimeter.
Please note that you must measure in ALTERNATIVE
Normal voltages are as follows:
0 =0 V
12V = 17V AC
24V = 26V AC
Sometimes the voltage of this one is good "no-load" but collapses when a control card is connected to it. In this case a replacement is necessary.
Transformers are not repairable.
It is important to know the operating frequency of the remote control to ensure that it works properly with your motorization.
It is important to use the batteries that correspond to your remote control model.
There are remote controls with fixed or rolling code, some remote controls are capable of transmitting on two frequencies.
Each button on the remote control contains and can store a different radio code.
You can duplicate radio codes between remote controls by following the procedure indicated in the instructions.
The wall control and receiver cards record the remote control code via the AF43S/868 radio card.
Older generation control boards only record one or two radio codes (CH1/CH2).
The new generation control cards are capable of recording several different radio codes (new user insertion procedure).
Remote controls are not repairable.
Your remote controls aren't working?
Have you checked the frequency on your radio card and remote controls?
To be able to operate, the radio card and remote control must use the same frequency 433Mhz or 868Mhz.
There is a jumper on the radio card (circled in red in the photo) you can try to change its position and try again.
The antenna cable or remote antenna can also be the cause of the problem and is crushing the signal from your remotes. You can unplug it and try again.
A faulty radio card can also trigger your gate randomly. Unplug it to make sure.
These cards are not repairable.
Your gate is showing error C1 / C3 / C7 / C8 / CY / CX / D1 / D3. Safety cells are often the cause.
Check the accessory fuse that supplies the cells.
There is also a fuse in the transmitter cells.
Wiring may also be the cause of your problem.
The cells are not repairable.
It informs the control card of the arrival of the gate in the end-of-travel position.
They are often the cause of problems with gates that no longer open or refuse to close.
You can check:
correct wiring, condition, correct adjustment of limit switches.
They are sometimes associated with limit cams which activate them by pressure.
Without support, the contact must be passing (cut when pressed).
The encoder is a device that allows the control card to know the position and progress of the electric motor during movement.
It allows you to manage slow motion phases and detect obstacles.
It can be electronic, optical or magnetic, mounted on the motor or integrated. In the latter case, the electric motor must be replaced.
Some motors use encoder cards which transmit this signal to the control card.
Error code E3 on your gate, start by checking the wiring of the encoders. Make sure there are no cut wires and that the connections are tight.
Next, examine the condition of the control board for damage; repair or replacement may be necessary if abnormalities are found.
If the wiring and board are OK, consider replacing the encoder or, if the motor has one built in, the motor itself.
Also check that the MN and E cables are properly connected and make sure that there are no obstructions in the way of the gate.
Confirm the correct installation of the encoder module and measure the voltage between terminals M and N using a multimeter to ensure that it is correct.
If thermal protection is activated, allow the system to cool before using it again.
Remember to inspect the end stops and motor condition to ensure they are operating properly.
By following these steps, you will be able to identify and fix issues related to the E3 error, ensuring the smooth operation of your portal.